This page will eventually include downloadable versions of business policies, shipping information, payment information, measurement charts, garment care tips, fitting guides, and design agreements. But until I can figure out how to do that, here’s the gist of some of this paperwork.
The design agreement I use with clients:
Miss MacRae’s Design Agreement
Ø Half of the estimated labor cost of your order is due before I start working on the project. If you purchase the materials from me, they must be paid in full before I begin on the project. The rest of the payment is due before I ship the item(s) to you. The final cost will depend on how much time and/or additional materials may be required for your actual garment. You can pay by check, money order, or PayPal. Please allow time for checks to clear.
Ø Small items, such as threads, needles, and other small miscellaneous items will be added onto the final cost of the garment. I will contact you if these supplies total more than $25.
Ø Custom made clothing are not returnable. Non-custom made clothing may be returned postage paid if not worn and in same condition when shipped. Returnable items must be returned immediately (within 30 days). Refunds for returnable items will be made minus shipping and handling charges. There is a $25.00 fee for returned checks.
Ø If I have already begun work on your garment, and you find you need to cancel the commissioned garment, you may choose to:
A. Have me stop work on the garment, and release it to my ownership. I will not return any previously made payments and deposits, but you are not responsible for the final garment cost.
B. Have me stop work on the garment, and have the uncompleted garment and materials sent to you upon receipt of any labor and materials costs that exceed any previously received payments.
C. Have me stop work on garment for 30 days, while you decide which option will be the best for you. If you still decide you want me to finish the garment after thinking it over, the project completion date will be adjusted by adding the number of days the project was put on hold by you. An additional fee may be charged for an earlier due date.
Ø If appointments need to be made, they must be scheduled at least 72 hours in advance. If you need to reschedule, please notify me at least 24 hours before your appointment. Missed appointments are billed at $25 each, added to the final cost of the garment. If you do not wear the necessary undergarments to the fitting, there will be no fitting and you will be charged for a missed appointment. Rescheduling is just a quick call or email away. You may call me or email me at Bevin@missmacraes.com. Please, no “drop in” appointments.
Ø Any changes made to the design after this point must be made in writing, signed by both parties, and may result in additional time and labor costs. These changes would be any dimension changes and may be due to or may not, weight loss or gain in excess of 10 pounds.
Estimated fabric cost:
Estimated total cost:
Name of Responsible Party:
¨ Garment sketches and/or fabric swatches attached.
¨ Extra fabric scraps that were not used to make the garment from the fabric you have previously purchased to be returned to responsible party upon project completion.
After the garment has been finished,
you are requested to sign the Project Completion Note.
¨ I have read and understand this Design Agreement, and agree to its specifications. I understand that any changes to the agreed design may result in additional design and labor fees.
Responsible Party’s Signature Date
Dressmaker’s Signature Date
Project Completion Note
This project has been paid in full by the responsible party, completed to the design agreement and is satisfactory to the client.
Responsible Party’s Signature Date
Dressmaker’s Signature Date
Some measurements I usually take of clients:
Contact: phone #____________________________
Arm length(from shoulder to wrist)_________
Shoulder to elbow_________
Neck to waist front_____________
Neck to waist back_______________
Underarm to waist_________________
Waist to floor______________
Waist to knee_________
Length of garment from the shoulder_______
Contact: phone #____________________
Neck to waist front____________________
Neck to waist back______________
Underarm to waist______________
Arm length(from shoulder to wrist)____________
Shoulder to elbow__________
Waist to floor front__________
Waist to floor back___________
Waist to floor over hoop front________________
Waist to floor over hoop back____________
Garment care tips:
White undergarments, such as shirts, chemises, drawers, and petticoats, can be washed as you would wash white cotton things at home. They are made to be durable and washed repeatedly.
Corsets need to be aired after wearing. They can be handwashed, but watch for rusting around the busk area.
Collars and cuffs should be hand-washed separately from the dress and then basted back on.
Petticoats should be starched with heavy or medium liquid starch and then pressed to prevent dirt stains and to provide maximum loft. Follow the directions on “Stay-flo” or similar for best results.
Corded sunbonnets should have starch painted directly onto the brim portion and allowed to dry. Lay it flat on a cookie sheet in the sun. Let dry until it is like cardboard. Travel with it flat, then use the drawstring in the back to shape it before wearing. Store under wool blankets at night to prevent wilting due to moisture.
Remove the slats of slatted sunbonnets before washing.
Aprons can be washed with your permanent press laundry. Unless white, and then they can be washed with the whites.
Cotton dresses can be handwashed, but to avoid fading, should be dry-cleaned. You can spot clean between end-of-season visits to the dry-cleaners.
Wool and silk dresses should be dry-cleaned. If your wool comes into contact with mud, wait for it to dry and then use a stiff clothes-brush to brush it off.
Knitted items should be hand washed and laid flat to dry.
Bonnets should not be exposed to moisture. Water destroys the glue in the buckram and will ruin the bonnet. Straw is less-susceptible to water, but will still wilt if exposed long enough. Keep them in hat boxes, out of the reach of youngsters or husbands, to prevent deformity.
Cages should be stored on a hook or peg in the wall with nothing else on it. When traveling, you can construct a bag or pillow case to place them in and lay on top of all other luggage, but DO NOT fold them in half and tie them if you can help it. For air travel, you can fold the cage in a figure 8 and it should spring back to life fine, but be gentle.
Kilts should not be cleaned unless they have something on them. Store them inside out on the hanger and in a garment bag. The dry-cleaning fluids will damage fibers eventually, so the less times it sees that place, the better. If you must go (sat in beer or something!) make sure to find a dry-cleaner who thinks of the kilt as a “kilt” and not a “Skirt”. You need a dry-cleaner who knows how to press the pleats. Ask around to find one. Once pressed improperly, it usually takes a trip back to the kiltmaker to undo the damage!